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New Doors

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David
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Post by Intercasa Mon Aug 02, 2010 6:25 pm

So I'm thinking it would really improve the look of my units buy replacing all interior doors, all 15 of them. I'm starting to get quotes and they are running around $2,000 per door including installation and replacing the frame / jamb. Anybody else replaced their doors and what prices did you pay?

I like the look of these doors (2nd and 3rd to right in pic)
[img][url=https://servimg.com/view/15357065/3]New Doors Timber10
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Post by Solovino Tue Aug 03, 2010 7:13 am

2000 pesos installed sounds way too cheap, especially for solid wood, frame and panel doors. They just have to be crap at that price. That might be a low ball bid on hollow core doors but I have my doubts.

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Post by Intercasa Tue Aug 03, 2010 7:36 am

They are hollow core, solid will run about $3,500. I'll get a 2nd bid today as well as see Home Depot.
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Post by Solovino Tue Aug 03, 2010 8:08 am

Those are still low prices for solid wood IMO. Does that include the finish?

The doors I've seen at HD have been made from banack or pine and those woods are very susceptible to termites or other wood eaters. Make sure you treat them or you might find yourself replacing them not too far in the future.

Same goes for hollow core if their interior frame work and jamb is pine.

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Post by Intercasa Tue Aug 03, 2010 8:29 am

Price quoted included everything. Many have written me and said for price, quality and the like that home depot was the winner in the end. I've been to one local madera store by Soriana and they get the premade white doors and strip them and paint or finish them. I'll check the other one in Riberas and then HD. I don't want cheap feeling doors but I'm also weighing price, this could end up being $30,000 to $52,000 pesos just to change the doors. A nice chunk of change.
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Post by David Tue Aug 03, 2010 9:25 am

We used Home Depot doors.
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Post by Solovino Tue Aug 03, 2010 10:34 am

To me HD doors are low quality and you get what you pay for. I've built and installed hundreds of custom doors and there are many factors that determine price/quality. The 6 panel door on the left out of quality kiln-dried hardwood, using decent quality and properly sized hinges, with a clear lacquer finish and would set you back around 6000 pesos. If you are replacing doors in a rental then I can understand going for a lower priced door.

Just make sure they use dry lumber and a good finish. Many shops will put an attractive finish on their doors using lacquer sealer because it is cheaper and builds thicker coats faster but it is a very fragile finish that scuffs easily. We use a maximium of 2 coats sealer and then a minimum of 3 coats of lacquer on interior doors. And using green wood will give you nothing but problems.

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Post by Intercasa Thu Aug 05, 2010 9:42 am

Home depot had a variety of doors, the hollow drum kind for 450 each to some solid pine doors for 1300 to 1400 pesos but what really caught my eye were the cherry wood solid doors for $1,850 pesos as those would look very nice as well as a door with some glass in it for a hallway door to get some light in there.

[img]New Doors 08031010[/img]
[img]New Doors 08031011[/img]
[img]New Doors 08031012[/img]
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Post by David Thu Aug 05, 2010 11:28 am

That's what we used in our recent remodel. They're fine.
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Post by kipissippi Thu Aug 05, 2010 12:12 pm

Slightly off topic but... I just bought a BUNCH of doors on an online auction (I got carried away and didn't realize just how many there were..well over two dozen) They came out of the Tennessee Governors Mansion. Some may be from the 1800's. It takes two people to lift them so I'm thinking oak? The problem is they're painted. What's the best method/product to strip them down to natural wood?
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Post by Solovino Thu Aug 05, 2010 12:16 pm

The ones they cal "cherry wood" are more than likely banack with a stain they call cherry. The others are obviously pine. If you decide to go with either of these doors, make sure you treat them. And you also need to price out the jambs, hinges, trim, finishing and installing.

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Post by Intercasa Thu Aug 05, 2010 1:56 pm

Doors were natural wood, no stain. What does the jamb, frame, treatment cost? I liked the cherry doors and will probably get them soon after getting a price. David what did you pay?
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Post by Solovino Thu Aug 05, 2010 3:41 pm

The first thing you need to do is check the size of the door openings in your home/building. It is best to remove the trim and measure the actual opening, not just the door itself. The doors can only be cut down x amount in length and width if they are slightly oversize. Or if they are too small you can build out the jamb by a small amount. The thing you don't want to do is having to modify the openings so the doors will work. All of this adds to the price.


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Post by Intercasa Thu Aug 05, 2010 4:13 pm

Yes, also I took pix of door specs, i.e. maximum amount you can trim. Thanks
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Post by CanuckBob Thu Aug 05, 2010 5:21 pm

Solovino wrote:The ones they cal "cherry wood" are more than likely banack with a stain they call cherry. The others are obviously pine. If you decide to go with either of these doors, make sure you treat them. And you also need to price out the jambs, hinges, trim, finishing and installing.

Solo, what's the best product to treat the doors with?
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Post by Solovino Thu Aug 05, 2010 6:51 pm

CanuckBob wrote:
Solovino wrote:The ones they cal "cherry wood" are more than likely banack with a stain they call cherry. The others are obviously pine. If you decide to go with either of these doors, make sure you treat them. And you also need to price out the jambs, hinges, trim, finishing and installing.

Solo, what's the best product to treat the doors with?

I don't know what the "best" is but there are a number of products available that will to the job. For me personally I always try to convince customers to select a wood species that doesn't need treating but on the occasions that they insist on a wood that is susceptible to insect attack I use a boric acid and propylene glycol mixture.

A brand called SayerLack makes a product called AD-0051 antiparásito which you can find at Home Depot. You need a well ventilated area to apply it and let it dry. Its strong chemical odor/fumes disappear after it dries and you can apply finishes over the top of it.

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Post by David Thu Aug 05, 2010 8:43 pm

Gracias Solovino, this is good to know.
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Post by ferret Fri Aug 06, 2010 10:33 pm

kipissippi wrote:Slightly off topic but... I just bought a BUNCH of doors on an online auction (I got carried away and didn't realize just how many there were..well over two dozen) They came out of the Tennessee Governors Mansion. Some may be from the 1800's. It takes two people to lift them so I'm thinking oak? The problem is they're painted. What's the best method/product to strip them down to natural wood?

I've had to rack my brains for a couple of days trying to remember the name of the product that I used to use....Circa 1850 furniture stripper. There are a number of different types depending on what you have to remove...the google search:
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&source=hp&q=circa+1850+furniture+refinisher&rlz=1R2SUNC_enMX375&aq=0&aqi=g3&aql=&oq=Circa+1850+f&gs_rfai=&fp=d9804d37b84b33a1

Those doors probably have a lacquer finish underneath the paint...and hopefully there aren't multiple layers of paint.
Pick the door in the worst shape to experiment and find out what you're dealing with 'cuz it's messy and smelly and requires infinite patience...most strippers contain methylene chloride which is a carcinogen.
There's also new heat stripping equipment on the market...or check out what it would cost to have them professionally "dipped".
I've done a staircase, the railing, five doors, five windows, a brass bed and various other pieces of furniture (like an icebox) bought at auction as well. It's enormously satisfying...
Have fun!

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Post by kipissippi Sat Aug 07, 2010 3:47 am

Well...I was on the internet and phone for the last two days! The vat dipping has become a thing of the past..at least in the midsouth. It's VERY caustic and damages the wood. That made me sad it would have been the easiest (for me) and probably the least expensive.. I chased lengendary refinishing guys like "Jack the Stripper" who USED to have vats..now the phones are disconnected. Bill's Stripper Shack hand does them for $125 .. But I've got a LOT of doors..besides the big doors..there are cabinet doors of all sizes and pantry doors and swinging louvered doors and doors with curley cue tops and linen closet doors and then of course all of the door jams and TONS of moldings! Big crown moldings and floor moldings...well...all of the moldings that they took out of the Governor's mansion. I've joined as many wood, paint, restoration and handyman forums as I can find. The really effective strippers are really dangerous..to skin, lungs and environment...especially when I have sooooo much to do. The earth friendly ones are not all that great and usually pretty messy...the newer ones like Peel Away (saw it on Martha Stewart) have great reviews..but....when I got to really digging...it would take most of two gallons for a 9 foot door You have to put it on really thick)....and it's $79 a gallon! Ouch! That's not going to do it. So....after researching till my eyeballs are about falling out...I think I've found my answer. Infrared paint stripper. Works well, doesn't burn wood and cause toxic fumes like a heat gun can, and all of the reviews I can dig up have been positive. A little pricey at 400 bucks.. but the cheapest place that I could send them too was $125 a door.... times a kazillion doors. I'll keep you posted on how well it does. Very Happy
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Post by ferret Sat Aug 07, 2010 8:29 am

http://www.silentpaintremover.com/
I believe that's the new infrared (heat) stripper that I saw on "Cool Tools" on the DIY network show.
I once tried the old fashioned "heat gun" on a window frame...and cracked the bubble glass. Basically they were just heavy duty hair dryers.
Unless "Peelaway" has become vastly improved over the last 15 years or so, it's crap...it will work well on ONE layer of paint that was applied directly to the bare wood. Don't waste your money on that one. If there's more than one layer, you will re-apply and re-apply.
I am glad that "dipping" is a thing of the past...unfortunately all of the Dippers have probably died of cancer.
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Post by kipissippi Sat Aug 07, 2010 9:09 am

The new Peel Away has gotten excellent reviews. It takes off up to 32 coats of paint. They did a a board on Martha Stewart that had a huge build up..but you have to let it set overnight. Came off slick in one piece because of the paper stuff you lay on top of it. No mess and effective..just too damned expensive. The little goodie that I ordered is this: http://www.air-nailers.com/spr/product.jsp?sku=1100 I thought it was too expensive till I started researching other methods. Just hope it works as well as everyone says it does. In my research I didn't find any complaints..unlike heat guns that really are dangerous from risk of fires and toxic fumes.
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Post by ferret Sat Aug 07, 2010 12:06 pm

Great web site! Keep us posted as to the results of working with your new toy. Before, during and after pics would be great too.
Also Kudos for "recycling".
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Post by hockables Sat Aug 07, 2010 12:15 pm

Shocked Things must be tough, that they are selling off bits and pieces of the Tennessee Governors Mansion.
I hope they kept the door to the John... fellas still entitled to a little bit of privacy...
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Post by kipissippi Sat Aug 07, 2010 1:19 pm

It was a complete reno...it's now new and improved. Very Happy
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Post by ferret Sat Aug 07, 2010 9:49 pm

So, I went on the http://www.diynetwork.com
website to find the infrared tool that I saw on "Cool Tools" and here it is...
http://www.paintshaver.com/heat-n-strip.html
There's a video segment from the show which you may be able to watch...I can't because I need an IP blocker to view it in Mexico (and I don't have one).
I love stuff like this...on my wish list is a power caulking gun...uh huh, uh huh, oh yeah! Very Happy
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